Category Archives: Training

H.I.T Hard, Crank Harder…

Oct 03 2012

I’ve had a number of requests recently for some more posts about training, especially from fellow female climbers. So it seemed fitting to share about my somewhat recent experiences with HIT Strips. A little late, but better late than never! HIT Strips, aka Hypergravity Isolation Training, are a training protocol developed nearly a decade ago by guru Eric Horst, author of numerous training for climbing books. What prompted me to hop on the strips? Summer in the Southeast, as you are probably aware, is not known for it’s sending conditions. Heat and humidity is at an all-time high, causing both…Read the rest of this entry →

Indoor Training Tips: Triple Intervals

May 07 2012

I’ll be the first to admit, it’s hard to get in a good (and efficient) workout at the climbing gym with Cragbaby flitting around like the social butterfly that he is. The days when we could time our gym time with a nap in a stroller are long gone, as are the days when we could barricade C with crash pads under an overhang. To be honest, I’ve been pretty indifferent towards the climbing gym for the past year or so. Yeah it’s a fun place to go, but out of the 4-6 hours that I spend there every week, how…Read the rest of this entry →

Tales of a Broken Talus – Update #4

Mar 27 2012

For those of you that want the quick version, here’s the skinny - I’m finally out of the boot! Yay! For those that want the nitty gritty, here’s the play by play… Day 31-32: Feeling strong on the hangboard, as I’m back up to 7-10 seconds again, despite the added weight. Today I also added weight to my offset hangs on the large edge. My plan is to stick with this for another week, then next week toss in another weighted bean bag. The warm spring weather has me frustrated because I’m afraid by the time I’m back up to par it’ll be…Read the rest of this entry →

Extracurricular Training Part 2: Shoulder Stabilizers

Mar 15 2012

Last week I posted about PUSH muscle training, and why its important. Of equal importance is shoulder strength – all those tiny little stabilizer muscles that keep your shoulder in place while you latch a dyno, lay in hard on a gaston, or run laps on horizontal terrain. Climb long enough and I guarantee you will either sustain a shoulder injury yourself or climb with someone who does. Sometimes shoulder problems are chronic and creep up gradually as dull, nagging aches that never quite seem to go away. Other times these injuries occur acutely, resulting from a specific motion or fall scenario. Regardless of…Read the rest of this entry →

Tales of a Broken Talus – Update #3

Mar 13 2012

I’m hoping that this will be the last update that ends with a boot… Days 18- 20 – After the good news at my doctor’s appointment, I spent the latter part of the week exploring my newfound freedom to attempt some cardio. Although me boot-legging my way around the neighborhood could hardly be described as heart-pumping, it at least felt good to get out. It took me 27 minutes to walk the .85 loop, but I had zero pain, and even got stopped by a little old lady who informed me that I was “doing the right thing” by trying…Read the rest of this entry →

Extracurricular Training Part 1 – The Antagonists

Mar 08 2012

In the literary world, the “antagonists” represent the bad guy – the person, place, or thing that causes conflict and opposition to the “protagonist,” or good guy. Lord Voldemort, Sauron, and even Satan are classic examples of antagonists. It’s no wonder that we as climbers tend to steer clear of training our antagonist muscles…But joking aside, however, this type of training should be a very important component to EVERY climber’s training regimen, from beginners to the elite. Here’s why. Just like their literary counterparts, antagonist muscles in climbing are the muscles that act in opposition to the main muscles used…Read the rest of this entry →

Tales of a Broken Talus – Update #2

Feb 29 2012

It’s been an interesting week, less emotional than the first one, and with an end goal in sight that I can live with. Day 10: Being that it was President’s Day, Steve had the day off. Being that it was a clear, gorgeous day without a cloud in sight, the big boys all went climbing. Of course Cragbaby incorrectly assumed that meant him too – he got really excited when he saw all the backpacks and climbing gear come out, and enthusiastically helped his Daddy load the car. But when everyone said good bye and hopped in the car without…Read the rest of this entry →

Tales of a Broken Talus – Update #1

Feb 19 2012

In light of my latest footwear trend, all trip reports to climbing destinations, exotic or otherwise, will be on hiatus for a quite some time. However, since injuries are an unfortunate and inconvenient fact of life for everyone at one time or another, I thought it might be worthwhile to document how I’m getting through this without going crazy (more or less). I’m certainly not the only one that’s been sidelined for a while, and since writing has always been a therapeutic outlet for me, I thought that weekly injury “trip reports” might be a healthy coping mechanism, as well…Read the rest of this entry →

“Not all who wander are lost.” —JRR TOLKIEN