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Best Sport Climbs Hidden Valley – 5.10 and Under

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Now that you’ve got the basic crag beta down for Hidden Valley, it’s time to decide what routes you want to try.  The best part about Hidden Valley (aside from that 4000′ elevation!) is the wide variety of grades spread all around the cliff.  This post will zero in on the lower grades – those of you looking for 5.11 and up recommendations will have to wait!  But for now, here’s plenty to get started on. GREAT FOR NEW LEADERS STALLION 5.5 –  Both of my children like this one!BUTT FACE 5.6 – Easy slabbin’ with plenty of bolts.LEISURE SUIT 5.8 –…Read the rest of this entry →

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CRAG PROFILES: Hidden Valley

CRAG PROFILES: Hidden Valley

Well, if you follow me on Instagram (@cragmama), you may have noticed the poll that went up last week about which crag to feature on the blog next – Hidden Valley or the Red?  It was a tight race, with the winner going back and forth numerous times before finally settling on Hidden Valley.  If you were hoping for the Red, have no fear, that Travel Beta guide will hopefully be up before your fall projects start calling.  But for now, read on for the travel beta for family climbing at Hidden Valley. First off, let it be known that…Read the rest of this entry →

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NRG Sport Climbing Superlatives – 5.12 and Up

NRG Sport Climbing Superlatives – 5.12 and Up

If 5.11 is where things really start to get good at the New, then 5.12 land is nothing short of heaven.  Whether you’re looking for one-move wonders or sandbagged classics, spooky slab or straight up roof thuggin’, the New has more than a few 5.12’s for you! GOOD “FIRST OF THE GRADE” CANDIDATES LOW BROW 12a (Meadow) – First NRG 5.12 for both CragDaddy and me.  It is a slab, which not everyone likes, but if you have good footwork it shouldn’t be too bad.  Great rests + lower angle means there is not a big pump factor, although there’s…Read the rest of this entry →

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NRG Sport Climbing Superlatives – 5.11

NRG Sport Climbing Superlatives – 5.11

Ah, 5.11.  While the New has some of the best climbing on the planet at any grade, 5.11 is where it really starts to get good.  Whether you are looking to bag your first one, rack up a list of classics, or avoid crowds, look no further, because this post can help. GOOD “FIRST OF THE GRADE” CANDIDATES WILD SEED 11a (Fern) – The business section of this one is about as gym climb-y as you’re gonna get at the New.  The opening slab moves will keep you honest if you are a true gym rat, but are probably only…Read the rest of this entry →

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NRG Sport Climbing Superlatives – 5.10 and Under

NRG Sport Climbing Superlatives – 5.10 and Under

Welcome to Part 2 of my new Travel Beta series focusing on the NRG!  If you missed last week’s Crag Profile of the New, catch up here. Some crags might be able to get through a superlative list in one post…but not this place!  There’s just way too much goodness here, so I’ll have to split it up.  For our family’s fave 5.11’s and 5.12’s, you’ll have to wait.  For 5.10’s and below, read on!  Routes were chosen based on a few factors, most of which were entirely subjective, so I won’t be offended if you disagree with my choices! …Read the rest of this entry →

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“Not all who wander are lost.” —JRR TOLKIEN