Cragmama "Not all who wander are lost…" JRR Tolkien

KEEN Footwear: From Trail to Classroom

Gear Reviews.
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Rigorous playground testing.

Rigorous playground testing.

When Big C was just 18 months old, he got a chance to try out a pair of Alamosa hiking boots (reviewed here.)  And now, 4 years later (believe it or not!), they are still stowed away safe and sound until Baby Zu can fit into them, which will probably be sooner rather than later…In the meantime, KEEN offered to suit up both her AND Big C into some of their new back-to-school offerings for the fall season!

I chose the Monica CNX toddler shoes (in a super cute purple) for Baby Zu.  The KEEN website says these shoes offer “cute classroom style with full-on recess performance,” and I would have to agree.  They are adorable, and Baby Zu gets many compliments on them wherever we go.  I love that they are sporty, but still feminine (especially since Baby Zu still doesn’t have very much hair and we still rely heavily colors to provide gender identification clues.)  And while she isn’t big enough for recess yet, she is most certainly on the move!  With just one velcro strap, it’s easy to get chubby little toddler feet in and out of of these shoes.

I chose the Big Kid Chandler CNX for Big C.  I let him choose the color, even though I already knew he was going to pick the blue and red ones (because they looked like Spiderman…)  According to the KEEN website they are designed for “City Streets, Hiking, Trails and Parks, Playground, and School,” which pretty much covers 95% of Big C’s daily activities.  The fabric is really lightweight and breathable, and dries quickly even after a romp in some puddles.  But best of all they are durable.  He’s been wearing them non-stop for almost 2 months with hardly any signs of wear and tear.

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My only beef with both shoes is that they are equally comfortable when worn without socks…which is fantastic in every way except the stench factor.  But I guess I’d rather have stinky feet than blistered feet!  They may not be cheap (retail price $50 and $55), but I have learned (the hard way) that buying cheap shoes for your kiddos doesn’t really end up saving you that much money.  Big C’s previous two pairs of shoes were half the price…but had holes in both toes (not to mention ZERO tread left) by the time they hit the 2 month mark.  You get what you pay for!  (And now that I think about it, my pair of old school KEEN Newports are approaching 20 years old, and look like they will hold up for at least 20 more!)

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Anyone else have a go-to brand/style of shoes that are versatile enough to wear for both school, play, and recreation?  Feel free to leave some recommendations in the comments below, as well as your own personal experience with the KEEN brand.

 

 

 

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Humidity + Humility = Reality at the New River Gorge

Climbing. New River Gorge.
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This weekend marked our first climbing trip back on the east coast since our big Wyoming adventure (summed up here, here, here, and here.)  And while it felt good to be back on familiar stone, the CragDaddy and I both took a giant dose of humble pie (served dripping in humidity!)

Getting out of my comfort zone on Psychowrangler 12a

Getting out of my comfort zone on Psychowrangler 12a

“You know we’re going to get pummeled at the New this weekend, right?” I’d joked to Steve last week.  After a week of rest and a couple of bouldering sessions at the gym, we were still talking about the glory days of our vacation, where both of us had climbed harder than we’d ever expected – hitting personal climbing milestones left and right.  But while we came into the weekend feeling strong and confident, I had a sneaking suspicion that we were in for a rude awakening…

Me thinking that at Ten Sleep I never had to lock off this hard (MENSA 11d)

Me thinking that at Ten Sleep I never had to lock off this hard (MENSA 11d)

On our first day we climbed (or attempted to, anyway) at Kaymoor (White Wall), which I’d only been to one other time.  The hike is not terribly long, but by the time we got there, we were all drenched in sweat…welcome back to summer in the South.  We’d had a few fall-ish days after we’d first gotten back from Wyoming, but apparently that had only been a tease, because conditions were pretty darn terrible this weekend.  I sent the warm-up (Almost Heaven 10b)…and that was it.  In fact, that was the only route that I even got to the top of without pulling on a draw.

Day 2 was a lot better.  We climbed at Beauty Mountain, and I ticked off a pair of classic routes that had been on my list for quite some time – MENSA 11d and Disturbance 11d.  I’d actually been on both once before back in 2012, but had only toproped them, as that trip had been my first since breaking my ankle 8 weeks previously.  Both feature technical face climbing with long reaches between good holds.  The reaches on MENSA involve typical NRG lock-off strength, whereas the crux on Disturbance requires delicate foot placement with a little dose of aggro (ie, get your feet absurdly high and huck for it!)

After my dismal performance the day before, it felt good to remember how to rock climb again and I put MENSA down first go, although it felt a lot harder than I was expecting.  Disturbance didn’t come quite as quickly, as I really had to dial in my footwork and timing for the big deadpoint move.  But after a lot of flailing around beta refinement on my first go, I felt strong and solid on my second try, and sent fairly easily.  (Meanwhile Big C was throwing himself at the slab boulder at the base…and FINALLY sent it with a pretty sweet slab dyno!  We got it on video, so click here to see it.)

Yup, the New is reachier than Ten Sleep...Disturbance 11d

Yup, the New is reachier than Ten Sleep…Disturbance 11d

It was a treat to get a 3rd day at the New, as we usually take the opportunity to hit farther-away crags on holiday weekends.  Our crew decided to go to Cottontop, which to be perfectly honest, was not my first choice.  The most obvious route for me to tackle next is Psychowrangler 12a, which requires a skill set that is the complete opposite of mine.  It’s steep, powerful, and super badass…and also super intimidating.  Last fall I’d shocked myself by actually making it to the top…then I came in with guns blazing right before we left for Wyoming and got shut down at the first bolt.  The move is big, and getting higher feet is really awkward, but it’s from a good hold to a great hold, so most people just jump for it, or even campus.  I am horrible at both of those things (although I must admit I’m starting to enjoy some of my campus workouts!)  The CragDaddy urged me to try again, citing bad conditions as the reason I couldn’t get anywhere on it last time.  But once again, no dice.  I get all tied in and ready to roll and….DENIED!

Ninja obstacles at the crag.

Ninja obstacles at the crag.

After taking a much-needed break to play Batman with Big C, I took a walk with the guidebook, hoping to find something appealing that I hadn’t seen before.  There are several 11+/12- routes on the left side of the cliff that I never hear anyone talk about, although most of them get 2 stars in the guidebook.  The one that looked the best to me was Cotton the Act 11d, so I gave it a whirl. Things were going well initially – a couple hard moves to a good stance, then a long reach to another good rest, wandering back and forth across the bolt line.  But then up towards the top I got stymied by a (you guessed it) long reach at the crux.  No matter how many different ways I positioned myself, I just could not hit the right hand crimp that initiates the rest of the crux sequence.  I tried skipping the hold.  I tried going left and going right.  Nothing worked.  Finally i used the nylon jug (aka quickdraw) to get out to it, then fired the rest of the route to the top.  The route was awesome, but my frustrations continued.

I wasn’t going to try it again, but CragDaddy (once again), encouraged me to try it again.  On his onsight attempt, he’d discovered a tiny, shallow pocket out left that he’d been unable to use, but thought my little fingers might like it better than the long reach out right.  And sure enough, they did!  I could easily get 2 fingers stacked in it with a thumb wrap.  Cranking on that hold with a high right foot enabled me to get to the next clipping hold from the opposite direction everyone else had come from.  After I got it worked out, CragDaddy and I did back to back sending go’s while Baby Zu took an insanely long crag nap.

CragDaddy taking a run up Psychowrangler 12a

CragDaddy taking a run up Psychowrangler 12a

By this point in the day a lot of our crew had already left to head home, but CragDaddy wanted to try Psychowrangler…and convinced me to try it one last time.  Neither of us was anywhere close to sending…but I FREAKIN’ MADE IT PAST THAT FIRST MOVE!  Turns out I’d remembered my beta completely wrong (ie, get right foot up and flag left, as opposed to left foot up and flag right!)  Once I executed the correct way, it was like finding the missing piece to the puzzle, and it felt easy!  (AND we got it on video so that I won’t forget it next time we’re at Cottontop…which will probably be sooner rather than later, since now CragDaddy and I both have a nice project waiting for us there!)

THIS is my beta for the first move...someone remind me if I forget!!!

THIS is my beta for the first move…someone remind me if I forget!!!

So while the word “pummeled” may have been a bit strong, our trip definitely reminded me that grades are a lot stiffer at the New than they are in other places!  (My “12a effort” out in Ten Sleep felt remarkably similar to my “11d effort” at the New…)  And the handful of colored leaves I saw along the trail on the way out reminded me that while it may still be muggy summer conditions here in the South, those fall sending temps are just a few short weeks away.  And then our options will be “Endless” – both literally and figuratively, as I’ve got a mighty long to-do list once it becomes Endless Wall season!

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Every Trail Connects…

Hiking.
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Big C psyched on the Popo Agie Falls Trail in Sinks Canyon, WY

Big C psyched on the Popo Agie Falls Trail in Sinks Canyon, WY

Recently I joined forces with REI to promote their #everytrailconnects campaign.  Their campaign will provide $500,000 towards trail projects at 10 different locations across the country.  For my part, I’ve been asked to reflect on my own experience with trails, and why they are meaningful to me.  (For REI’s part, keep reading!)

I sort of hesitate to admit it, but I haven’t always been “all about trails.” Admitted that the ultralight hiking poles we had allayed the arduous journey, but as a rock climber in my pre-kid era, I always thought of trails as merely a necessary mode of transportation to get to the base of the cliff (where the adventures would REALLY begin.)  It’s not like I hated hiking or anything, but hiking just for the sake of hiking always seemed a little boring to me unless you were actually GOING somewhere to DO something – climb, swim, picnic, or even just a spectacular vista.  The main attraction was the final destination, and the means to get there was…well, just a means to get there!

Then I became a mama.  And I started seeing what a simple walk in the woods was like from the eyes of a child.  First, as a newborn wrapped against my body – so safe and snuggly, eyes filled with wonder gazing up into the treetops.  Then in just a few months, crawling into every nook, cranny, and crevice, while examining every rock, leaf, and twig he could get his hands on.  By the time he was a curious toddler, he was off and running…and falling…and running…and falling.  Now, as an inquisitive 5 year old boy, hikes are filled with impromptu science lessons and other teachable moments.

But my son (and now daughter as well) are not the only ones learning out on the trail.  Motherhood has taught ME that the journey can be just as important as the destination.   Hiking to the crag takes us twice or even three times as long with our kids in tow.  But the experience is twice as rewarding.  Stopping to toss rocks in the stream rather than quickly passing by may mean we get in one less route on the day.  But the gleeful squeals of a preschooler that come after every “plunk” make our pit stops worthwhile.  And the blissful babbles of our 18 month old every time we stop to smell a blooming rhododendron are equally satisfying.

Enjoying a serene pit stop along Ten Sleep Creek.

Enjoying a serene pit stop along Ten Sleep Creek.

So in some ways, I (and my growing family) have come full circle.  Now when I plan our climbing trips, our itinerary is peppered with plenty of family hiking that’s just as much about the GETTING THERE as it is the THERE.  Sometimes it’s a rest day hike through mountain meadows in search of wildflowers and butterflies.  Other times it’s just a brief mountain stroll to stretch our legs on a Friday night before setting up our tent.  And those old, familiar climber trails that were once nothing more than a mode of transportation?  They are now seen as a catalyst for family interaction.  EVERY TRAIL CONNECTS.

Whether we are on the way to the base of the cliff, a gorgeous mountain panorama, or on the way to nowhere in particular, trails are always at the heart of bringing our family closer together.

Which brings me back to REI’s campaign…as I mentioned, there are 10 worthy trail projects that will be receiving funding.  The division of funds was determined by an online vote – head over here to explore more about each trail, as well as learn about how to get involved in a local stewardship project in your area.

And while you’re at it, please feel free to share your own thoughts below about your favorite trails and why they are meaningful to YOU.

 

 

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Wyoming Adventure Finale (aka the part that happened in Utah)

Climbing. The Wild West.
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Like a Limestone Cow(girl) 12a

Like a Limestone Cow(girl) 12a

After one last wonderful climbing day in Ten Sleep (summed up here), we dragged our tired but satisfied bones back down to the car, and drove west back to Lander.  The next morning we made tracks to Bear Lake, UT, which is probably one of the most beautiful bodies of water I’ve ever seen.  CragDaddy and I had visited there once back in the pre-kiddo days of 2009.  The lake is situated at the end of Logan Canyon, which offers some great roadside craggin’.  Only an hour and a half from the airport, it was the perfect final stop on our adventure.

After enjoying some raspberry milkshakes that lived up to their “world’s best” claims, we weren’t exactly feeling light and tight, so we decided that some relaxation by the lake was in order.  Though less adventurous than our previous water experience in Sinks Canyon, Bear Lake was definitely warmer!  The kiddos splashed around for an hour or so, then we headed into the canyon, where we pulled off to squeeze in a quick pitch before dinner.

We parked at the Fucoidal Quartzite area and hopped on Illusions 10a, which felt a bit more polished than we’d remembered.  But the highlight of the day for sure was Big C suiting up for some climb time of his own!  Ten Sleep didn’t really have any good “kid routes,” and Big C really hadn’t expressed the desire anyway.  But when we pointed out Tiny Toons 5.5, he was all of a sudden psyched to harness up!  I’m not gonna lie, his first attempt was an exercise in patience for us, and frustration for him.  There was a lot of whining involved, but every time I suggested that he come back down, he adamantly refused.  At one point he said that he was scared, and I encouraged him to sit back and rest on the rope.

Big C crushing Tiny Toons 5.5

Big C crushing Tiny Toons 5.5

I had mistakenly assumed that he was afraid of falling.  However, his answer revealed the real fear – failure.  “BUT I WANT TO SEND IT!!!!” he screamed with all of his might (not the first time we’d heard this sentiment from him.)  Finally we convinced him to take a hang, figure out the moves, then take another “sending burn.”  When it was his turn again, he was far more confident and efficient (aren’t we all on the 2nd go!), and went right up without any trouble!

Like a Limestone Cow(boy) 12a

Like a Limestone Cow(boy) 12a

 

We spent the evening trying to pack up our gear as best we could.  It was an hour and a half drive, and we needed to be at the airport by 3:00…but we still had one more route left on our agenda – Limestone Cowboy 12a.  Also in the Fucoidal Quartzite area, this one was supposed to be the best 12 in the canyon, so we couldn’t leave without at least giving it a try!

The next morning we got out earlier than we had the entire trip, and decided to forego the warm-up in the interest of time.  Perhaps that wasn’t the best idea, as no one flashed, and we all fell at different places.  The toll of so much climbing on so little rest was catching up to us.  Two of my fingertips had “holes” in them, and the skin on the other finger tips was feeling pretty raw.  Caleb’s skin was okay, but the tendons in his fingers were aching.  And the CragDaddy was feeling a little all of the above, with a side of de-motivation.

Meanwhile however, Big C was just getting started!  He took a “beta lap” up a different variation of Tiny Toons.  It had a pretty interesting sequence for him down low that allowed him to practice some compression-style moves, which was something he’d never done before.  When his turn came round again, he nabbed his second clean TR ascent of the trip!

Compared to what we’d been getting on in Ten Sleep, Limestone Cowboy was a lot less sustained.  The first couple of bolts are no harder than 5.9, followed by a no hands rest.  The face is thin and sequency, but not that hard once you figure out the beta, with a great jug rail to shake out on before the overhanging finish.  The boys took a while to figure out the face moves, but had no trouble with the finish.  I made it clean through the face, but then got pummeled on the overhang.  The moves are BIG (like, feet-cutting big), and while the holds are also big, they are angled in such a way that definite technique is required (not just a gimme jug haul.)

Big C doing the "hug beta"

Big C doing the “hug beta”

CragDaddy and Caleb both sent 2nd go, but I got my feet too high too soon on the face, and punted off.  I was feeling pretty exhausted, so I was planning on just cleaning the route when I got to the top, but I found some better finishing beta thanks to a decent intermediate hold I hadn’t seen before, so I decided to give it one more try.  I sent 3rd go, making Limestone Cowboy my “most-tried” route of the entire trip!  Yay for sending!

And since that marks the end of our whirlwind Wyoming (and Utah) adventure, I’ll also say, “Yay for training!”  After seeing great results this spring from the training plan outlined in the Rock Climber’s Training Manual, I’d started another training cycle at the beginning of the summer, with “Ten Sleep success” as the primary goal.  I defined “success” as racking up as many classic 5.11 and 5.12 sends as I could.

As far as 5.12’s go, initially I was hoping for one in Wild Iris, and maaaaaaybe one per day in Ten Sleep (since I knew going in that the climbing there tends to suit my strengths), which would bring my trip total up to 5.  (I thought by the time we got to Logan Canyon, I’d be lucky to get up 5.10, so I didn’t factor that in at all.)  But apparently I underestimated the effect of all the training…and my trip total ended up being 10 – double what I’d been hoping for!

I hope that the previous paragraph doesn’t come across as spray…my intention is to highlight the impact that a periodized training program had on my goals.  In my mind, it played a big role in how the trip went for me.  No doubt I would have had a blast on stellar routes either way, but the training allowed me to have a lot more success on a much higher level of climbing than what I was expecting.  Now that we’re back and settled into the daily grind (unbelievably, Big C started Kindergarten this year!), my question for everyone is…who’s ready for SEND-tember?!?!

 

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Wyoming Adventure Part THREE – Last Days in Ten Sleep

Climbing. The Wild West.
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On our last trip to Ten Sleep (in 2012), we only had 3 consecutive days in on which to climb (and we were so beat on Day 3 that we only made it til lunchtime.)  So this time around, we allowed more time.  After two incredible days at Sector Shinto and Superratic (summed up here in case ya missed it), a rest day was most definitely in order.

Happiness in Slavery 12b

This route is called Happiness in Slavery 12b…

We started with a drive high into the Big Horn mountains to West Ten Sleep Lake, where we enjoyed gorgeous views as well as a short morning hike down to the Ten Sleep Creek Falls.  We probably could have dawdled the day away here, but even layered in the warmest clothes we’d brought, we still weren’t prepared for the 38 degree temps we found at such a high elevation.  So back down we went,where the rest of the day could be summed up by the words “sleeping” and “eating.”

Happiness in dirt. :)

This picture is captioned, “Happiness in Dirt.”

On Wednesday morning we found ourselves back at Sector Shinto, eventually, that is.  Our creek crossing shenanigans continued, as the creek was significantly higher after the previous day’s rain.  All of the rocks to hop across were either underwater or wet, and the fallen log now featured slick, icy spots.  While Big C is normally pretty fearless, the icy log was where he drew the line (which was fine by me, since I was not particularly jazzed on toting Baby Zu across the log in the backpack either.)  We decided that the guys would cross the creek and go ahead and get up there, while I drove back down canyon and hiked up the long way with the kiddos.  Thanks to LOTS of singing and some motivational huckleberry licorice sticks I’d bought in town, we made it to Sector Shinto not only with minimal whining, but a full FIFTEEN minutes faster than we’d done it the first day (it helped that our lungs no longer felt like they were exploding at the slightest incline…)

Sector Shinto

Wyoming Flower Child 5.11d – Though it was more difficult than the 10a to it’s right, this fun little number was a much more pleasant warm-up.  The holds weren’t nearly as sharp, and the business wasn’t until just before the anchors.
Dope Shinto 12a – CragDaddy and Third Man Caleb still had loose ends to tie up with the Left and Center Shintos, I made it my mission to tick off the other starred routes on the wall, starting with the dopeness.  Though easier than the other 12’s on the wall, this one is just as fun.  A sequency little boulder problem down low guards fun 5.11 climbing to the top.  Hanging draws I botched the sequence and pitched off trying to reverse the moves, but I sent 2nd go.
Wutang’s Wild Shinto Ride 12a – This was the last 12 on the wall left for me, and it was definitely a wild ride!  A tad sharp, but great (relentless!) movement with a glory pocket right that showed up at just the right time!  I needed a send to keep pace with my “35th (5.12) on my 35th (birthday)” goal, and while it didn’t go down without a fight, I onsighted it!  (Shout out to Crag-Daddy for hanging a few of the draws for me as he was lowering down off Dope…it definitely made things easier!)

Dope Shinto 12a

Dope Shinto 12a

Left El Shinto 12b

Left El Shinto 12b
Slavery Wall

Our last day in Ten Sleep happened to fall on my 35th birthday, and I couldn’t have picked a better place to celebrate than the Slavery Wall!  I started the day with 33 lifetime 5.12’s, so I only needed 2 more to reach my birthday goal of 35.

Steve sending Asleep at the Wheel 12a

Steve sending Asleep at the Wheel 12a

Asleep at the Wheel 12a – We’d been averaging 4 pitches a day (kiddos around + climbing as a party of 3 = quality rather quantity!)  So instead of “wasting” one on a warm-up, I decided to get down to business right away.  I figured this would allow me 2 burns per 12, rather than forcing me into a situation where I felt pressure to onsight (I’d also already done the stand out warm-up for the area, Beer Bong 10b, back in 2012.)    Asleep at the Wheel was great – and the first few bolts weren’t that difficult so it ended up being a decent warm-up anyway!  There were 2 definite crux sections, but great stances to suss things out before each.  I almost punted off the top, but kept myself together enough to tick it first go!  With 1 down, 1 to go, I was feeling pretty optimistic about my chances for number 35!

These kiddos are awesome.

These kiddos are awesome.

 

This bull snake was pretty cool too!

This bull snake was pretty cool too!

Strut Your Funky Stuff 12a – This one was aptly named, for both climbing style as well as being number 35!  The footwork was definitely funky, and the crux for me was finding the footholds.  The feet were actually pretty good, but since most of them consisted of small pockets that doubled as handholds, they were really difficult to spot once you moved up above them.  I wasn’t taking any chances on finishing my goal, so I enlisted CragDaddy, (who had just gotten off the route), to give me a complete spraydown of the holds in real time as I went up.  Definitely a gift-wrapped flash, but I’ll take it!

With the pressure to send off my shoulders, I decided it was prime time to hop on the area classic – Happiness in Slavery 12b.  I knew it was probably too little too late in the day (and trip!) to send something so bouldery and pumpy (especially hanging draws!), but I didn’t want to leave Slavery Wall without experiencing it.  It was hard, for sure, similar to Great White Behemoth but with slightly bigger holds on slightly steeper terrain.  I mostly went bolt to bolt, and even so I was running on fumes by the time I clipped the anchors!  I would have loved to have seen how it would have felt on a 2nd go, but I guess it’s good to leave something to come back for next time!

Getting funky on number 35!

Getting funky on number 35!

What a great present!  After one 12 in Wild Iris (recapped here), and eight in Ten Sleep, I bagged my 35th lifetime 12 on my 35th birthday, woo-hoo!  Happy birthday to me!  And while the end of this day marked the end of our time in Ten Sleep once again, we all walked away pleased with what we accomplished.  Besides, even though Ten Sleep was done, we still had to make our way back to the SLC airport…and we still weren’t quite done with our tick list for the trip!  Stay tuned for the FINAL edition of our Wyoming Adventure (the one that actually takes place in Utah.) 🙂

Initial boulder problem on Happiness in Slavery 12b

Initial boulder problem on Happiness in Slavery 12b

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“Not all who wander are lost.” —JRR TOLKIEN