Cragmama

May 23 2013

Mid-way up Thunderstruck (5.12b)

After skipping a year for the first time in 10 years, the New River Rendezvous was back and better than ever this past weekend! For those of you not familiar with it, the ‘Vous is a climber’s festival that raises money for the New River Alliance of Climbers (NRAC). It’s also a great excuse for the climbing community to get together and celebrate living near some of the best stone this country has to offer! Though it was the 5th Rendezvous for Steve and I (and Cragbaby’s 2nd), it was my first time attending as an athlete for Trango, which made for an entirely different experience.

First of all, the ‘Vous started earlier for me than it had in years past – I rolled into town on Wednesday evening, and was hiking down to White Wall by 7:15 the next morning, clothed in my brightest, most photogenic articles of clothing. I started the day off well – flashing Almost Heaven (5.10b) and Moon Child Posse (5.11c) before teammate Dan Brayack arrived ready to rig for photos on the aesthetic Thunderstruck (5.12b).

Adam looking pretty casual on Thunderstruck (5.12b)

I was psyched to try this classic line, and I was feeling really strong until I got shut down hard going to the anchors. And by shut down I mean that after a dozen fairly large whippers I finally had to send up for the stick clip to be able to clean the route. From there we bushwhacked through poison ivy covered cliff line (fingers crossed I came out unscathed…) stopping at a few routes along the way to the Hole, where Dan made Blood Raid (5.13a) look like 5.10. One such route was Pockets of Resistance (5.12a), which at one point had been my nemesis until I was able to snag the send over Mother’s Day last year. No such luck second time around though, although I at least managed to avoid any stick clip shenanigans. At this point I started to notice a theme…everyone else sends easily while I thrash around and take twice as long…

Day 2 I was reunited with hubby and the little guy and we all trekked out to Lower Meadow for another day of photos. Temperamental lighting ended up dictating the routes we did, and after a quick warm-up we set up shop on the Cat Wall. Dan shot Adam and I both on Go Cat Go (5.12b), a nice sustained line heading straight up the middle of the wall. Later on in the day I got on Gato (5.12a), which felt significantly easier than it’s neighbor to the left. This line had a burly start (that was literally soaked from the previous day’s monsoon) and a lot of variety – a one move crux throw off of positive crimps, a small roof, and easy runout edging to the finish. After I worked out the moves I pulled the rope and tried it two more times, but each time I didn’t have enough gas to make the throw at the crux. Oh well – 5.12 and me don’t always get along at the New, so I was more than satisfied with that progress, and I think it will go pretty easily another time when I’m fresh.

The crux move for me on Go Cat Go (5.12b)

Saturday was intended to be a rest day…but we ended up giving Adam a tour de classics at Endless Wall. We warmed up on Stim-o-Stam (5.11c) and then hit up Freaky Stylee (5.12a), another one of my dirty dozen sends from last year’s “Twelve 5.12’s” goal. But in keeping with the theme, I did NOT get the resend this weekend. I had trouble in a random spot that I don’t remember being difficult before, but then fired the crux first go with relative ease (go figure). That being said, when I sent it last year I felt about as desperate as you can get and it held the honor of my proudest send to date. So even though I did fall on it this go round, the fact that I felt so secure in the crux seems like definite improvement.

I rounded out my day on Jesus and Tequila (5.12b), which I’m glad I toproped, because I would have gotten pummeled on lead. I was actually clean for the first 4 bolts or so, but the crux moves took a lot of work, and it certainly was convenient to not have to jug up every time I fell. I don’t feel anywhere close to sending, but it was certainly fun to play around on it.

Another one from Go Cat Go (5.12b)

By Sunday morning I was running on fumes, as the early mornings followed by long days followed by late nights were really catching up with me. But the sun was shining and Endless Wall was beckoning again, so away we went. We warmed up on Strike a Scowl (5.10b), before heading to Leave it to Jesus (5.11c) to rig for photos of Dan. We then headed over to Fern Point, where I tried my hand at Techman (5.12c), a line I had toproped a few months prior. This time I tackled it on lead, and was able to work out good beta through the crux. I bailed at the big move just above the 4th bolt (same place as I had bailed last time), but this time I think I figured out a sequence that will work (just not on Day 4 in the baking sun!) I ended my weekend cleaning Mellifluous (5.11a) just as the skies opened up.

And speaking of skies, they were forecasted to be pretty gray this weekend (50-60% chance of rain each day!), but despite the late afternoon thunderstorms, we climbed on (mostly) dry rock every single day. On paper I certainly didn’t accomplish much of anything, but lack of sendage aside, I’m pleased with how I climbed. Ordinarily for me a 4-day trip would consist of mostly 5.10-5.11 climbing with a 5.12 sprinkled in here or there, as that’s a pace I can maintain pretty easily for several days in a row. This trip, however, I spent the majority of time climbing at my limit, which meant great photos but crappy “statistics.” But while I may not have been able to link much together, I did feel strong physically and confident mentally, and more than once was shocked to find myself still hanging on. I’m pretty sure that on upcoming trips I’ll be able to send most of the harder routes I got on, provided I take them on one at a time rather than all at once.

Dan dominating Leave it to Jesus (5.11c)

“Clipping!”

I must admit that doing the event with Trango was a pretty sweet gig – climb and take photos by day, play social butterfly at the booth by night, not to mention a few other party-like-a-rock star perks I managed to enjoy as well. But I’d be lying if I said it wasn’t hard not being the one to tuck my little guy into bed at night, and having to slip out of the tent early the next morning before he woke up. It was difficult shifting gears back and forth from “climber” to “mommy” and back again. On a normal weekend it’s easy to find the balance – there’s plenty of down time in between routes for me to catch millipedes with C and scoop up moss with his bulldozers while we cheer on the rest of our friends, and we’ve got all afternoon to wander back to the car at C’s own pace, making nature observations along the way. We knew going in, however, that this weekend would be a lot more chaotic than most, and Steve knew he would basically be playing the role of single dad for the weekend. But although we were prepped, I still found myself dealing with a few pangs of mommy guilt here and there, most of which stemmed from pressure I put on myself to be everything to everybody. Another time I think the best solution for our family at an event like this would be for C to enjoy a weekend at the grandparents while I took care of my outside responsibilities. He’d get spoiled rotten, I could stay focused and guilt-free, and finding other climbing options on photo days would be a lot easier (and more exciting) for Steve. Hindsight is 20/20 of course, but all in all I couldn’t possibly complain about such a great weekend! Good climbing, good company, and good laughs…that’s what it’s all about, right? 😉

Thanks to Dan Brayack for letting me use some of the awesome images he took, and thanks to Adam for all the patient belays and soft catches during all of my repeated thrashings. For those of you that were there, what were your highlights? For those of you that weren’t…you sure missed out! And for those of you that would like to see more pics, go here!

Finding Nature (and Ducks!) in Unexpected Places

Sentimental Snapshots.

3 Comments.

May 20 2013

“That Mommy Duck is peeking at me!” C shouted excitedly as he slid over to make room for me and the rest of our food at our table. It was a Friday night, which of course meant we were at Chick-fila. Ever since we moved to Charlotte (and actually even before then), our family has had a long-standing tradition of heading to the neighborhood Chick-fila on Friday evenings when we aren’t heading off on a climbing trip for the weekend. When the weather is nice and the days are long, we walk, usually pulling C in the wagon and waving at neighbors along the way. In an old archived post I noted that while we weren’t breaking any gas-saving or e-commuting records, we were hopefully modeling to C that if we each do a bunch of little things, we can all make a big difference.

But this post is not about environmental stewardship, it’s about that Mommy Duck that was peeking out at C from behind the playground bars. She, along with her dashing, green-headed, beau (aka “The Daddy Duck”) were quietly patroling the perimeter looking for food scraps. They were completely unaware of the excitement they were creating for the playground kiddos. After a while Mr. Greg came out to see why all the kids were glued to the bars instead of clambering around on the slides. (Coming there every Friday night means we’re on a first name basis with several of the employees…it also means we occasionally get free ice cream!)

Anyway, Mr. Greg informed us that this same duck “couple” begins frequenting the restaurant every spring. (We probably hadn’t noticed them last spring because C had been too young for the playground at that point.) They most likely nest in the pond at the back of the shopping center, and my guess is that Chick-fila is not their only stop, considering that there are several restaurants that actually have outdoor seating that overlooks the pond.

Seeing the twinkly light in C’s eyes as he proceeded to tell his Daddy which duck was the Mommy and which one was the Daddy one, it reminded me that often times nature shows up in rather unexpected places. The key is that we have to remain open to the opportunity – had we sat inside we would have missed out on the comical interaction between muttering ducks and squealing children. Something as simple as choosing to sit outside on a nice evening, taking a walk rather than watching TV, or even biking somewhere that you would ordinarily drive to can provide a refreshing opportunity to catch a glimpse of Creation in the midst of the day to day hubbub.

What unexpected places have YOU found nature in this spring?

Urban Adventures with the Chariot Chinook

Gear Reviews.

6 Comments.

May 15 2013

The Chinook in stroller mode (and toddler push mode…) at the Columbia Zoo.

Our family has long since been fans of products from Chariot. Their commitment to family adventure is unprecedented, as for years this company has been providing families with ways to get everyone from here to there in just about any way imaginable – bike, run, walk, ski, etc. Our first experience with Chariot was with the Cabriolet. It’s a durable two-seater that has been on many a family escapade over the past 3 years. I even did a review on it way back when we first got it (found here). It wasn’t until we rented some bike trailers for C and his cousin on a family vacation in Michigan back in 2011 that I realized how much Chariot products stood out from their competition. So when the lovely ladies from Women’s Adventure asked if I’d be willing to review the latest urban offering from Chariot as part of their gear guide, I jumped at the chance.

According to their website, the new Chariot Chinook is designed “for those seeking urban adventures…to accommodate busy families who want to go anywhere and do anything.” After testing out the Chinook for a wide variety of activities and terrains, I think it’s safe to say that their product description is accurate, as this product will not only fit all of your urban needs, but many of your more adventurous family endeavors as well!

You can easily read the bullet list of features and specifications on the Chinook from the Chariot website, but the following are features that stood out for our family:

PACKABLE – At first glance it doesn’t seem like a bike trailer would be all that portable. But the Chinook easily fit in the trunk of our Toyota Camry, leaving plenty of room for adventure-goers and their gear in the back seat.

ADJUSTABLE HANDLE – One of the most annoying things about other jogging strollers that we’ve used is the handlebars. With a Daddy at 6’1″ and a Mommy at 5’5″, we aren’t usually fans of “one size fits all” varieties. The Chinook handlebars were adjustable with one quick click. The highest level was perfect for Daddy’s turn at the helm, while the bottom rung worked out great on my runs.

SHOCKS – The silky smooth shocks made the Chinook very pleasant to use on even the bumpiest of terrain. On one bike ride in particular I was amazed that my 3 year old was able to finish his entire cup of water (no lid!) without any spills – that’s a feat he sometimes even has trouble with on his OWN two feet!

The Chinook in biking mode (our most common use)

STORAGE CAPACITY – The only thing we were a little bit disappointed about was the amount of storage on the Chinook. Our first outing using it as a stroller was at the Columbia Zoo – by the time we’d filled up the meshed compartment in the back with lunches/snacks, and stuffed some extra layers of clothing in the extra spaces on either side of my little guy, we were pretty much maxed out. Plenty of room for a day long outing on the greenway, but if you stop at the grocery store for a few items on the way back, your child might end up with a bag in his/her lap. To be fair, while our old Cabriolet did have a bigger storage area at the back of the carrier, many times I relied on the “extra” seat to stow items on errand days – so switching to a smaller storage area AND a single seat might have been too many variables for an unbiased comparison!

MANUEVERABILITY – The Chinook has the turning radius of a sports car, which was made very evident as we navigated through throngs of people at a crowded zoo on that first outing. While I was initially afraid that using a “larger” stroller would be annoying, I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it was to maneuver between exhibits, especially the indoor ones in tight spaces.

EASY TRANSITIONS – While I loved pretty much everything about the Chinook, the “Click n’Store” feature was by far my favorite. There are plenty of other multisport carriers out there, but most are designed with a “one sport at a time” mindset. But with the Chinook my little guy and I could easily bike to the farmer’s market, take off the bike conversion arm in seconds, and voila – we’re ready to stroll through the aisles!

Before you start to think this all sounds too good to be true, keep in mind that this stroller/trailer combo definitely falls into the “luxury” category. If our old Cabriolet was a reliable Honda Accord, I’d say the Chinook is more along the lines of a Mercedes luxury sedan with all the bells and whistles. At a hefty $949.95 MSRP, this single carrier sports a price tag that is more than double our two-seating Cabriolet (that being said, it only cost 50 extra bucks to upgrade your Chinook to a double, so unless you want to save weight, a double’s not a bad idea even with just one kid.)

Like all Chariot products, I think the Chinook is a very well-designed piece of gear that will last your family for as long as you need it – and then some! It has features that will not only help active families stay active, but could very well get families on the bike/road/trail who would otherwise be at home on the couch! This review was written in conjunction with a gear guide for the summer issue of Women’s Adventure Magazine. So for more great gear options this summer, pick up the latest copy at the newsstand or click here.

5 Ways to Have Fun With Strawberries This Season!

Homeschooling.

No Comments.

May 13 2013

Strawberry season is without a doubt one of my favorite times of the year. A bucket overflowing with plump, juicy red strawberries held triumphantly by a toddler with red-stained hands and face is a joyful image indeed! And now that the season is upon us, I thought it would be fitting to share a few of our family’s favorite strawberry-related activities…

PICK YOUR OWN: Growing up I can remember every year driving to the local farm with my mom, often several nights per week, all throughout the month of May. We’d pick 4, eat 2, then drop the rest in the bucket. Then when we got home we’d wash them off and eat some more. Picking your own berries is not only fun (and tasty!), but it’s a great opportunity to teach your children about where food comes from, along with the environmental (and often financial!) benefits of buying locally. To find a local strawberry patch in your area, click here. (For all you Charlotte locals, check out Hall Family Farm!)

GRAB ‘EM AND GO: “Give that strawberry a haircut, Mommy,” says C every morning without fail, as he reaches for the biggest berry he can possibly find. I slice through the cap, throw it into the compost bowl, and hand C his juicy prize, at which point he gleefully runs off to hop in either the bike trailer or the car, depending on our destination du jour. This quirky little morning ritual actually started a little over a month ago (b/c our household loves strawberries so much that we buy them year round…) C abruptly decided that he preferred his morning fruit as a post-breakfast “dessert” rather than in the bowl with his granola and milk. Now, regardless of whether he’s had fruit for breakfast or not, he insists on having exactly one (and occasionally one for each hand, but never more), before we head out for the day. A little odd maybe, but I’m certainly not going to discourage the boy from eating as much fruit as he wants! That being said, the next time you need a snack for the car – grab a bowl of berries and give them a “haircut!” (Just don’t forget the wipes for those red-stained hands and faces!)

GET SMOOOOOTH(IES): Smoothies are a favorite snack at our house, and I can’t think of the last time I made one without tossing in at least a couple of strawberries. Besides adding some sweetness and a friendly color to the mix, the list of health benefits from strawberries is long! Our old standby recipe (meaning that we generally always have these ingredients laying around, even if I’m a day or two late with groceries) is follows: 1 banana (overripe and one day from rotting is best for adding sweetness!), 6-8 strawberries, handful of baby carrots (chopped fairly small), a splash of juice, spoonful of greek yogurt, and a handful of ice cubes. Yum. This combo makes enough for a small smoothie for both me and C, or one big one for either of us (“big” meaning 12 oz or so, so not huge.)

TOSS ‘EM IN: A handful of strawberries is a great way to boost the nutrition of whatever you’re eating. Oatmeal, cereal, granola, yogurt, a bowl of assorted fruits – don’t be afraid to get creative! (My son went through a phase where he loved dipping strawberries as well as blackberries in…hummus! (And not just normal hummus, but the slightly spicy tomato basil kind from Trader Joe’s…)

FREEZE ‘EM: Any strawberry that enters our house is pretty much guaranteed to get eaten within a few days, but on the rare occasion that we do end up with too many, we freeze them (like during those “Buy 4 for 5$” weeks at Harris Teeter!) FYI, frozen strawberries make for ESPECIALLY tasty smoothies.

Surely I can’t be the only one around here that eats my body weight in fruit during the month of May (okay confession, I have similar tendencies with raspberries…and oranges…and bananas…). How does YOUR family make the most of strawberry season? (And if you’re looking for some more creative uses for them in the kitchen, check out some of the delectables described here.

Sending a Family Project: Flash Point (5.11d)

New River Gorge. Climbing.

7 Comments.

May 08 2013

C projecting the Honeymooner’s Ladders while we all warmed up on Muckraker (5.11a)

This weekend the hubby and I had the unique opportunity to send a project together, one that was equally meaningful to us both, but for very different reasons. For Steve, Flash Point was about redemption. After a pretty successful toprope run this past January, he tied in on the sharp end with no expectations and shocked everyone (but probably himself the most!) by making it through the first two cruxes clean before pumping out one move before a good rest 80 feet up. After jugging back up he found some better holds that probably would have kept him on had he seen them in time, and finished the route easily from there. After being haunted by that mistake for 4 months, he returned this weekend ready to step his climbing up to the next level.

For me Flash Point represented a complete shift in perspective with regards to my style of climbing. This particular route is the one that prompted the “TRY HARD” mantra I’ve been trying to focus on ever since I humiliated myself on it 4 months ago. Unlike Steve, my attempt on this line back in January was about as unsuccessful and anti-climactic as you could get – I bailed at the first hard move and slithered away in defeat.

But enough about us, back to this route which is, in my humble opinion, one of the best, if not THE best at its grade at a world class climbing destination. Flash Point is situated in the middle of Endless Wall, towering proudly out over the rest of the gorge. It features 100+ feet (better have at least a 60m rope!) of engaging movement on perfect stone. It features three very distinct cruxes, and while the sequences are varied, there’s a common theme – most agree that the moves are easier if you’re tall. Now the term “height dependent” gets thrown around a lot at the New, but I actually think that term tends to be overused. This is not to say I’ve never been shut down by a long reach – it happens all the time…and probably more at the New than anywhere else! But I can also think of numerous times where I’ve been able to find beta that works for me just fine – and besides, utilizing an excuse that downplays the accomplishments of my taller climbing partners doesn’t seem fair. Everyone has to figure out what works best for their body, and we all have strengths and weaknesses. That being said, the moves on Flash Point are HARD for my body. Height-dependent? That seems a bit strong, but “not short person friendly” seems fair to say.

Steve entering the bouldery section after the traverse.

The first crux happens about 40 feet off the ground, after a nice 5.10 warm-up. In January I desperately flailed around trying to do the same beta all the guys did. This time I got creative and used a completely different set of holds to get my feet up into an awkward stance that I could hold just long enough to snag the next hold. First crux – check.

The next section feels a little insecure because it gets thin fast, but the moves aren’t really that hard, and you’re rewarded with a couple of great shake-out jugs before making a traverse out to the second crux. The next struggle for me was actually somewhat of a non-move for my taller friends, who just reach up over a small bulge for a full-pad crimp rail. But my problem came when I was nowhere close to reaching those holds from the foot ledge everyone else used. At first I tried to just dyno, and was actually able to stick the hold a few times, but then found myself far too extended to move – time to get creative again. I ended up finding an unlikely smear on the bulge and making a big deadpoint to the rail – with the higher feet I could then do a hand/foot match which actually set me up really well for the rest of the sequence. Second crux – check.

The third crux is the biggest reach yet, but was also the most technical – way too precarious to be dynamic. This one is a long move for pretty much everyone, and is the last thing standing in the way of 25 feet of technical 5.10 before the chains. The sequence is probably a familiar one for those that frequent the New – get your feet up, lock off as hard as you can, and reach high. Unfortunately for me, I straightened out my legs, stood tall…and came up short by a solid 7 or 8 inches. Really? At first I was pretty stumped – there was absolutely nothing by way of intermediate holds, and my left foot was as high as it could go. But on a whim I decided to see if I could turn my hand position from a sidepull to a mantle – and that gave me a couple more inches! Still nowhere close, I then carefully walked my fingers up so that I was balancing on my fingertips – a whopping 4 more inches! At this point my balance was pretty shaky, but I wasn’t about to give up the ground that I’d gained – so I slowly started inching my right foot up a little bit higher. Right when I started to lose my balance I turned my head to keep my body close to the wall and slightly pushed off of my right foot – and breathed a sigh of relief as I snagged the hold I needed! Third crux – check. Time to put it all together.

Tipped out, stretched out, and holding my breath at the final crux…

Since Steve had sent in fine style hanging the draws earlier that morning, I cheered for him and my friends over on a nearby route while I waited for my turn to climb again. When I tied in a second time, my mantra as I left the ground was to BE AGGRESSIVE (I won’t lie, the familiar chant from high school basketball games went swimming around in my head for a while…) The first crux went off without a hitch…and so did the second, although the rest right before the third crux was well-needed. I started my sequence (“Aggressive, aggressive,” I told myself), executed my beta, and…got impatient when I couldn’t reach the hold I needed. I bumped my right foot up higher than it had been the first time, which gave me more height, but completely shifted my center of gravity. All of a sudden I was horrified to find myself falling away from the wall in slow motion! Next thing I knew I was dangling on the other side of the arete 15 feet below my last bolt, with that sinking feeling of failure welling up in my stomach. I jugged back up and made the move first try. A slurry of expletives ran through my mind, but the only thing that came out was, “Next time.”

Unfortunately for me, the third time was NOT the charm – the sun had moved around the corner and was baking the whole route, not to mention I was tired and less motivated than I had been before. But FORTUNATELY for me however, everyone was willing to come back the next day – Steve was on cloud 9 after sending everything (and I mean EVERYTHING) on his tick list for the day, and my other partner still had unfinished business with Jesus and Tequila (5.12b). After a quick warm-up, Steve was kind enough to hang the draws for me while I went through all the sequences in my head.

C makes a “quickdraw train” while mom and dad hop on the send train.

As soon as I touched the rock, my confidence grew. The rock felt dry, cool, and unusually grippy. If Flash Point was gonna go, now was the time. The first crux felt easier than it ever had, but I was a little rattled after coming up just shy of the second crux hold. I managed to stay on though, reloaded, and fired again, this time getting it right. When I got to the rest stance, I waited a full 5 minutes, forcing myself to slow down and shift gears from “a muerte” to zen. I waited for the adrenaline rush to end, took some deep, calming breaths, and this time as I went through the last crux sequence, I resisted the urge to rush. Apparently that made all the difference, because when I opened my eyes (yes, at some point I’d closed them lol), I was still on! I was so stretched out I felt like even the wind could blow me off, but I methodically matched my foot to my hand, and stood up to clip. Three bolts later and I was clipping the chains!

And thus, Flash Point is sent! Grade-wise, it seems as though other routes that I’ve done should be far more impressive. But the feeling of accomplishment has always meant far more to me than the actual number written in the guidebook. And if I’m going off of that mentality, this line is probably one of my proudest sends. I can only think of one other route I’ve done at the New that took so much physical and mental effort, and required such a unique balance of strength and finesse. (Freaky Stylee, 5.12a). And snagging the “family send” makes it even more special, as it’s unusual to find ourselves projecting the same routes. Imagine how fun it will be when the crag-kiddo can hop on the send train too! If you haven’t done Flash Point yet…you should go there this weekend and do it. You won’t be disappointed, I promise. Bring your big girl (boy?) panties and go-go-gadget arms, and you are guaranteed to have fun!

“Not all who wander are lost.” —JRR TOLKIEN

Cragmama "Not all who wander are lost…" JRR Tolkien

New River Rendezvous X – A Recap of the Rollercoaster

Finding Nature (and Ducks!) in Unexpected Places

Urban Adventures with the Chariot Chinook

5 Ways to Have Fun With Strawberries This Season!

Sending a Family Project: Flash Point (5.11d)