Cragmama "Not all who wander are lost…" JRR Tolkien

Tag Archives: Trango

Best Sport Climbs Hidden Valley – 5.10 and Under

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Now that you’ve got the basic crag beta down for Hidden Valley, it’s time to decide what routes you want to try.  The best part about Hidden Valley (aside from that 4000′ elevation!) is the wide variety of grades spread all around the cliff.  This post will zero in on the lower grades – those of you looking for 5.11 and up recommendations will have to wait!  But for now, here’s plenty to get started on. GREAT FOR NEW LEADERS STALLION 5.5 –  Both of my children like this one!BUTT FACE 5.6 – Easy slabbin’ with plenty of bolts.LEISURE SUIT 5.8 –…Read the rest of this entry →

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NRG Sport Climbing Superlatives – 5.12 and Up

NRG Sport Climbing Superlatives – 5.12 and Up

If 5.11 is where things really start to get good at the New, then 5.12 land is nothing short of heaven.  Whether you’re looking for one-move wonders or sandbagged classics, spooky slab or straight up roof thuggin’, the New has more than a few 5.12’s for you! GOOD “FIRST OF THE GRADE” CANDIDATES LOW BROW 12a (Meadow) – First NRG 5.12 for both CragDaddy and me.  It is a slab, which not everyone likes, but if you have good footwork it shouldn’t be too bad.  Great rests + lower angle means there is not a big pump factor, although there’s…Read the rest of this entry →

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NRG Sport Climbing Superlatives – 5.11

NRG Sport Climbing Superlatives – 5.11

Ah, 5.11.  While the New has some of the best climbing on the planet at any grade, 5.11 is where it really starts to get good.  Whether you are looking to bag your first one, rack up a list of classics, or avoid crowds, look no further, because this post can help. GOOD “FIRST OF THE GRADE” CANDIDATES WILD SEED 11a (Fern) – The business section of this one is about as gym climb-y as you’re gonna get at the New.  The opening slab moves will keep you honest if you are a true gym rat, but are probably only…Read the rest of this entry →

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An Addendum to the Spring Sum-Up

An Addendum to the Spring Sum-Up

When I wrote a re-cap of my spring climbing season 2 weeks ago, it was 95 degrees, and jungle status humidity.  Today feels similar.  But this past Saturday brought a rare respite from both heat and humidity.  And I don’t mean an “it was a few degrees cooler” kinda thing.  I’m talking, lows in the 50’s, high’s in the 70’s, and 30-40% humidity.  Such a shocking departure from the norm that it seemed almost providential that CragDaddy and I rearrange our schedules to be back at the New on Saturday – because by Sunday it was going to be summer…Read the rest of this entry →

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Spring Sum-up: Because Summer is Already Here

Spring Sum-up: Because Summer is Already Here

A little over a month ago, I wrote a “here’s where things stand midway through spring” post.  After enduring 90 degree temps in Kentucky over Memorial Day weekend, I’d say it’s time to officially close out the chapter on Spring 2019.  Despite being riddled with rain seemingly weekend after weekend, I actually had a pretty successful season.  Although the heat came way before I was ready to be done climbing hard,  I’m currently finishing up this post on the back porch of my in-law’s beach house overlooking the ocean, so life isn’t too terrible right now!  Here’s some highlights from…Read the rest of this entry →

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“Not all who wander are lost.” —JRR TOLKIEN