Time for the final round of Hidden Valley recommendations – this time for 5.11 and up. And guess what – fall sending is almost here! So if you are in the market for some good projects, this list might be a good place to start. While the moderate routes can get quite crowded on good weather weekends, you’ll find that the queues drastically decrease as the grades increase. GREAT “FIRST OF THE GRADE” CANDIDATES ROADKILL 11a – A little pumpy, but straightforward, and you get a good rest once you pull the roof. GRISTLE 12a – I know lots of…Read the rest of this entry →
Category Archives: Climbing
Posts about…you guessed it – climbing! Trip reports, anecdotes, and musings about my favorite recreational pasttime.
I’m not sure what the climbing conditions are like where you are, but around here it is still pretty hot and sweaty. That was probably the biggest factor influencing our decision to head to Hidden Valley this past weekend. Other factors included avoiding the throngs of people flocking to the Red and the New for the holiday weekend, as well as wanting to do some recon for the Hidden Valley Travel Beta series posts I’ve been doing. The good news is that we had success on all fronts – decent temps, crowd avoidance, and recon. (Oh, and speaking of that,…Read the rest of this entry →
Now that you’ve got the basic crag beta down for Hidden Valley, it’s time to decide what routes you want to try. The best part about Hidden Valley (aside from that 4000′ elevation!) is the wide variety of grades spread all around the cliff. This post will zero in on the lower grades – those of you looking for 5.11 and up recommendations will have to wait! But for now, here’s plenty to get started on. GREAT FOR NEW LEADERS STALLION 5.5 – Both of my children like this one! BUTT FACE 5.6 – Easy slabbin’ with plenty of bolts. LEISURE SUIT…Read the rest of this entry →
Well, if you follow me on Instagram (@cragmama), you may have noticed the poll that went up last week about which crag to feature on the blog next – Hidden Valley or the Red? It was a tight race, with the winner going back and forth numerous times before finally settling on Hidden Valley. If you were hoping for the Red, have no fear, that Travel Beta guide will hopefully be up before your fall projects start calling. But for now, read on for the travel beta for family climbing at Hidden Valley. First off, let it be known that…Read the rest of this entry →
If 5.11 is where things really start to get good at the New, then 5.12 land is nothing short of heaven. Whether you’re looking for one-move wonders or sandbagged classics, spooky slab or straight up roof thuggin’, the New has more than a few 5.12’s for you! GOOD “FIRST OF THE GRADE” CANDIDATES LOW BROW 12a (Meadow) – First NRG 5.12 for both CragDaddy and me. It is a slab, which not everyone likes, but if you have good footwork it shouldn’t be too bad. Great rests + lower angle means there is not a big pump factor, although there’s…Read the rest of this entry →