If 5.11 is where things really start to get good at the New, then 5.12 land is nothing short of heaven. Whether you’re looking for one-move wonders or sandbagged classics, spooky slab or straight up roof thuggin’, the New has more than a few 5.12’s for you! GOOD “FIRST OF THE GRADE” CANDIDATES LOW BROW 12a (Meadow) – First NRG 5.12 for both CragDaddy and me. It is a slab, which not everyone likes, but if you have good footwork it shouldn’t be too bad. Great rests + lower angle means there is not a big pump factor, although there’s…Read the rest of this entry →
Category Archives: Climbing
Posts about…you guessed it – climbing! Trip reports, anecdotes, and musings about my favorite recreational pasttime.
Ah, 5.11. While the New has some of the best climbing on the planet at any grade, 5.11 is where it really starts to get good. Whether you are looking to bag your first one, rack up a list of classics, or avoid crowds, look no further, because this post can help. GOOD “FIRST OF THE GRADE” CANDIDATES WILD SEED 11a (Fern) – The business section of this one is about as gym climb-y as you’re gonna get at the New. The opening slab moves will keep you honest if you are a true gym rat, but are probably only…Read the rest of this entry →
Welcome to Part 2 of my new Travel Beta series focusing on the NRG! If you missed last week’s Crag Profile of the New, catch up here. Some crags might be able to get through a superlative list in one post…but not this place! There’s just way too much goodness here, so I’ll have to split it up. For our family’s fave 5.11’s and 5.12’s, you’ll have to wait. For 5.10’s and below, read on! Routes were chosen based on a few factors, most of which were entirely subjective, so I won’t be offended if you disagree with my choices! …Read the rest of this entry →
This post marks the start of a new Travel Beta series that will hopefully eventually include all of the Southeastern crags our family climbs at on a regular basis – starting with the family favorite of course, the New River Gorge! The first post for each area will include general beta for the area, as well as a breakdown of the family-friendliness of all the major crags within the area. Subsequent posts for that area will include our family’s top route picks for each grade. None of this info is intended to be used in lieu of a guidebook –…Read the rest of this entry →
When I wrote a re-cap of my spring climbing season 2 weeks ago, it was 95 degrees, and jungle status humidity. Today feels similar. But this past Saturday brought a rare respite from both heat and humidity. And I don’t mean an “it was a few degrees cooler” kinda thing. I’m talking, lows in the 50’s, high’s in the 70’s, and 30-40% humidity. Such a shocking departure from the norm that it seemed almost providential that CragDaddy and I rearrange our schedules to be back at the New on Saturday – because by Sunday it was going to be summer…Read the rest of this entry →